|
1.
|
The
first step is to put the vehicle up on jack
stands. The truck should be sifting at about
the same angle as it usually does when on
the ground or slightly lower in front. |
 |
|
2.
|
The
next step is to remove the old suspension
system completely. The front shackle mounts
riveted in the factory location are used for
a reference point. Be sure to flatten the
top of the frame rail where it is turned up
for the factory steering box mount.
|
|
3.
|
Part of
the radiator support crossmember will need
to be removed. Only remove the portion
indicated (see Figure A). This section needs
to be removed to provide clearance for the
rack and pinion steering unit. Leave the
front part of the crossmember in place to
support the radiator. |
|
4.
|
Using
the provided boxing plates you will need to
box the front section of the frame rails
where the crossmember will be installed.
Position the plates starting at the rear of
the modified radiator crossmember. You may
grind the inside edges of the frame rails
flat so that the plates lay flat against
them, but be careful not to grind off too
much or the frame rails will be too thin in
that area. The boxing plates can set on the
lower flanges of the rails in front, but
most of the flange will later be cut away
for the C-notch for the rack and pinion unit
and the crossmember clearance. Fit the
plates, weld and grind smooth. |
|
5.
|
The next step
is to install the new crossmember. Measure
straight back 17-1/4" from the center of the
front spring shackle hole in the frame and
make a vertical line (see Figure B). This
will be the center line of crossmember and
the spindles. Position the crossmember up
between the frame rails centered on the line
you made. If the crossmember does not fit
between the frame rails you may grind the
edges of the crossmember uprights to help it
fit better. Be sure that the crossmember is
all the way up and that the horizontal edges
are seated against the underside of the
frame rail. Tack weld the crossmember in
place once you have it property positioned.
|
|
|
|
6.
|
The upper
spring hats should be installed next. The
spring hats should be positioned on top of
the frame rail 1-3/4" forward from the front
face of the crossmember (see Figure C). The
taller side of the spring hat goes toward
the front of the vehicle. You may grind the
spring hats if they do not sit flat against
the top of the frame rail. Tack weld the
spring hats once you have them properly
positioned. |
|
7.
|
The next step
is the C-notch for clearance for the rack
and pinion unit. If using a manual rack &
pinion unit, measure forward 4-5/8" from the
centerline of the crossmember and up 1-1/2"
from the bottom of the frame rail and make a
mark. Draw a 2-1/8" radius with your mark at
the top of the radius (see Figure D). If
using a power rack & pinion unit, measure
forward 5-3/8" from the centerline of the
crossmember and up 1-1/2" from the bottom of
the frame rail and make a mark. Draw a
2-1/8" radius with your mark at the top of
the radius (see Figure E).Trim out the
material marked, leaving about 1/8" to work
with, and then install the rack and pinion
unit and see how the clearance is with the
C-notch filler pieces. Finish grind the
notch for fit and location, and then tack
the filler pieces in place. You may now
remove the rack and pinion unit. |
|
|
|
We
do not recommend using strut rods.
Tubular control arms distribute brake
load much better. However, if you choose
to use strut rods, use the instructions
in step 8. |
|
|
|
8.
|
The lower
control arms and strut rods can be used for
locating the strut rod plates and gussets.
Using a piece of wood and a C-clamp install
the lower control arms as shown (see Figure
D). Install the strut rods onto the lower
control arms and assemble the rear strut rod
ends with the large rubber bushings, cup
washers, and including the strut rod plates.
Align the tops of the plates with the
undersides of the frame rails, then fully
tighten the nuts on the strut rods to their
fully seated position (see Figure F). The
strut rods will act as alignment fixtures
while you tack weld the plates in place,
then tack weld the support gussets as well
(see Figure G). You may now remove the strut
rods and control arms. |
|
9.
|
You may now
finish weld all of the parts in place. M. I.
G. welding works best for this, but any kind
of properly done arc welding will be good.
Weld the crossmember and spring hats all the
way around. The spring hats can also be
welded on the inside on the sides of the
frame rails. Weld all the way around the
strut plates and gussets. Weld all around
the C-notch filler pieces also. |
|
Set
ride height so that the lower control
arms are horizontal to the ground and
align the wheel with the following
specifications: |
|
|
Camber:
0º Caster: 1-1/2º positive Toe-in:
1/16" for radial tires, 1/8" for bias
ply tires |
|
Please note: It may take 100 miles or
more of driving for the truck to settle
to ride height. The truck may settle
from ¾" to 1".
|
