| 1. |
Support the front and rear of the chassis on jack stands
so that you will be able to install the brake kit from
underneath. Be safe! Avoid pulling and pushing on the
vehicle while it is off the ground. |
| 2. |
Remove the old brake assembly and the cross member
behind it. (Note that you will be removing the clutch
pedal and this kit does not include one). To remove the
rivets holding the cross member, grind the rivet heads
flush. Center punch the rivet and drill through using
progressively larger drills up to a 5/16" drill. The
rivet should be relatively easy to punch out. If it is
not, then continue drilling with a 3/8" drill.
|
| 3. |
Install the chassis bracket (the one with three parallel
90 degree bends) using four 7/16-20 x 1" bolts, washers
and nylox nuts. The bracket locates inside the frame
rail with the top of the bracket under the top edge of
the frame rail and uses the same holes as the original
brake assembly. |
| 4. |
From
underneath the cab, slip the brake pedal through the
firewall and attach the pivot-end to the booster bracket
using the 1/2x20x1" bolt, large flat washer, and lack
washer. Bolt the booster bracket on the chassis bracket
using 3/8-24x1" bolts, washers, and nylox nuts. The
pedal pad can now be put on and locked down using the
1/2-20 jam nut. |
| 5. |
Thread a 3/8-24 jam nut and heim joint onto the booster.
Attach the booster to the booster bracket using the nuts
and lock washers provided with the booster. Make sure
you can get access to the vacuum inlet and that the
studs for the master cylinder are orientated correctly.
|
| 6. |
Push
the pedal up to its highest position without touching
the firewall (a 1/4" gap will do fine) and adjust the
heim on the booster until the holes line-up. Bolt
together using the 3/8-24x 1-3/4 bolt and nylox nut with
the 3/8i.d.x .25"spacer in-between. It is important that
you check that the pedal moves freely and returns to its
highest position without being obstructed.
|
| 7. |
Bolt
the master cylinder on using the remaining nuts and
washers. |
| 8. |
An
access panel must be added to the floor to make filling
the master cylinder with brake fluid easier. If you are
making your own, mark the cut-out that you will be using
on the underside of the floor above the master cylinder.
Once marked, remove the master cylinder and booster to
allow more room for cutting and working on the floor.
Make sure you use a cover for the hole and that it is
secured in place before covering it with your carpet
|
| 9. |
You
can now connect the vacuum inlet on the booster to a
vacuum port on your engine and your brake lines to the
master cylinder. The fluid reservoir furthest from the
mounting flange is for the front brakes. Refer to a
mechanics manual for assistance on bleeding hydraulic
brake systems. |
