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Installation Notes:
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1.
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While it may be
possible to install this kit without removing the bed, it is
recommended that you do so, as it is much easier. Support
the front and rear of the chassis on jack stands. Be safe!
Avoid pulling and pushing on the vehicle while it is off the
ground. |
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2.
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Remove the rear axle,
springs, and brackets. To remove the rivets holding the
brackets, grind the rivet heads flush. Center punch the
rivet and drill through using progressively larger drills up
to a 5/16" drill. The rivet should be relatively easy to
punch out. If it is not, then continue drilling with a 3/8"
drill. Take care not to drill the original rivet holes
larger or off center, as you will be locating your now parts
with these holes. |
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3.
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Install the leaf spring
brackets on the outside and underside of each rail(the three
holes on the sides attach in the same manner as the
originals and two bottom holes line up with the rivet holes
just drilled out). The running board brackets will have to
be dimpled to clear the spring brackets. This can be done
using a hammer and punch set to push the running board
bracket flange away from the rail. Fasten the brackets to
the rails using the 3/8-24xl-1/4" bolts, nylox nuts, and one
washer under each nut. It may be necessary to align-drill a
couple of these holes. In addition, there is another hole on
the bottom of the bracket that requires the rails to be
drilled. Use the bracket as a template for locating this
hole. There should now be 6 bolts holding on each bracket. |
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4.
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Install the shackle
brackets. The brackets are orientated on the rails, such
that the side with the weld is on the inside of the rail.
Line up the brackets with the holes of the original
brackets. It may be necessary to align-drill a couple of
these holes. Use three 3/8-24x1-1/4" bolts, nylox nuts, and
one washer under each nut to fasten each bracket. |
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5.
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Weld spring pads an the
axle. The spring centers are 39.75" and should angle the
pinion 5º up. Most people will skip this step for right now. |
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6.
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Install the springs.
Use the 1/2-20x4" bolts and nylox nuts to fasten the front
of the spring into the front brackets. To make things
easier, you may want to put the rear-end on a floor jack and
roll it into position, keeping it raised and out of the way
of the springs. Place the shackle bushings into the spring
eyes and the shackle bracket. Slide the shackle pins through
a shackle dog-bone and the bushings. Raise the rear of the
spring and attach to the bracket using the shackle dog-bones
and nylox nuts. |
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7.
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Set the rear-end onto
the springs with spring pads in between. Center the rear-end
and clamp the axle to the springs using the u-bolts, the
5-hole plates, and 1/2-20 nylox nuts. The 5-hole plates are
positioned under the spring with the shock tabs pointing
down on the inboard side and behind the axle. Typically, the
spring pads are 5º down from the pinion, but just get this
close for right now. Later, the final step will be to set
the vehicle on the ground and to check that the pinion angle
is 1º lower than the transmission angle. The pads can be
welded on after the spring pad angle has been checked and
repositioned if necessary. |
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8.
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Draw a line 28-1/8" in
front of the rear bed bolt hole on top of each rail. Center
the shock cross member an the top of the rails and mark the
hole centers on the lines just drawn. Drill holes through
the rail perpendicular to the surface. It is best to drill
only the top of the rails and then set the cross member in
place and use a transfer punch to mark the hole centers on
the bottom of the rail. |
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9.
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Install the shock cross
member with the shock mounting tubes pointing forward and
parallel to the ground using the 5/8-18x4-1/2" bolts and
nylox nuts with washers under the bolt heads and nuts.
Fasten the shock studs to the 5-hole plates using the 1/2-20
nylox nuts. Install the shocks with the remaining fasteners. |
